Spanische Amphoren, bekannt als Tinajas, haben Barriques im Weingut Elisabetta Foradori im Trentino abgelöst
- Höhepunkte
- Lange gelesene Weinartikel
- Magazin: Ausgabe Mai 2018
Simon Woolf untersucht Berichte über eine Konterrevolution in italienischen Weinkellern ...
Es gibt einen kurzen, aber dramatischen Moment in Paolo Casalis 'Film von 2014 Barolo Boys: Die Geschichte einer Revolution wenn der Winzer Elio Altare mit einer Kettensäge zu einer imposanten Reihe von Botti (traditionellen großen Eichenfässern) fährt, die im Keller seiner Familie stehen.
Seine rituelle Zerstörung dieser ehrwürdigen Gefäße, die 1983 in Kraft trat, hatte einen praktischen Zweck - Platz für neu gekaufte, kleinere Barriques aus französischer Eiche zu schaffen. Aber die starke Symbolik war klar - der angeblich übelriechende, verfallende Botti repräsentierte die alte Ordnung. Linien perfekter, neu zusammengestellter Barriques sendeten eine klare Botschaft von Modernität und Stil.
Scrollen Sie nach unten, um Woolfs Auswahl an italienischen Weinen ohne Eiche zu sehen
Was 1983 auf dem neuesten Stand zu sein schien, war Ende der neunziger Jahre für renommierte italienische Weingüter zur Selbstverständlichkeit geworden. In jüngerer Zeit ist die entscheidende Liebkosung der Barrique in Ungnade gefallen, von Friaul im Nordosten bis Sizilien im Süden und allen Punkten dazwischen.
Italiens Winzer wechseln zunehmend zu alternativen Materialien und Gefäßen für die Gärung und Alterung, von arkanen bis hin zu regelrechten Outrés.
Wo einst Barriques standen, könnten jetzt Amphoren, georgische Qvevris, Betoneier oder große Akazienfässer sein. Ist dies nur das zyklische Durcheinander des Laufbandes der Mode oder Teil einer entschlosseneren Bewegung hin zu mehr Authentizität und Ausdruck?
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