Barolo 2009,
Tom Maresca war von dieser Verkostung im Jahr 2009 rundweg enttäuscht und verwies auf das Versäumnis der Winzer, sich mit der Schwierigkeit des Jahrgangs zu befassen, als einen Grund für diese „düstere“ Vorstellung.
'Nur wenige 2009er Jahre rechtfertigten Optimismus hinsichtlich ihrer Langlebigkeit, und die meisten Hersteller sprachen von 2009 als einem Jahrgang für kurzfristiges Trinken.'
Der Jahrgang 2009 von Barolo wird die Verbraucher mit einigen harten Wahrheiten und einigen harten Weinen konfrontieren. Ich habe im Mai im Nebbiolo Prima in Alba weit über 200 Exemplare von Barolo 2009 probiert. Den meisten Weinen, die an den fünf Veranstaltungstagen angeboten wurden, fehlte nicht nur die klassische Nebbiolo-Farbe, sondern sie zeigten fast keine Nebbiolo-Aromen oder Aromen.
Ich liebe Barolo und respektiere und bewundere viele seiner Produzenten für ihr Engagement und die Klarheit ihrer Vision. Ich muss jedoch sagen, dass in diesem Jahrgang die Leistung vieler von ihnen nicht einfach fehlte, sondern düster war.
Natürlich gab es Ausnahmen: Mehrere Hersteller - für einige Giacomo Fenocchio, Aldo Conterno, Prunotto - erwiesen sich als ziemlich trinkbarer Barolo. Einige - insbesondere Pio Cesare und Massolino-Vigna Rionda - glauben sogar an das Alterungspotential ihres Weins. Diese Meinung wurde häufig von Händlern und Käufern, die eine Woche früher als Journalisten eine Auswahl dieser Weine probierten, und von den Produzenten (nicht blind) bestätigt. Aber für meinen Gaumen - und nach Meinung vieler Journalisten, mit denen ich gesprochen habe - scheinen die meisten Barolo-Macher die Schwierigkeit dieses Jahrgangs stark unterschätzt zu haben. Nur wenige 2009er rechtfertigten Optimismus hinsichtlich ihrer Langlebigkeit, und die meisten Hersteller sprachen von 2009 als einem Jahrgang für kurzfristiges Trinken.
Giacomo Conterno vom Weingut Aldo Conterno in der Gemeinde Monforte war einer der ausgesprocheneren Produzenten. Er sagte: '2009 war der Jahrgang eines Winzers. Ende August waren einige [Nebbiolo] -Ranken bereits fast reif und einige völlig unreif - fast 30 Tage Unterschied zwischen ihnen. Was Sie dagegen getan haben, hat bestimmt, welche Art von Wein Sie hergestellt haben. “Die normalerweise optimistische Consorzio-Einschätzung der Ernte in diesem Jahr ist sehr vorsichtig:
'Der Jahrgang 2009 wird auch wegen seines unregelmäßigen Reifungsmusters in Erinnerung bleiben… In Bezug auf die technologische Reifung kann der Jahrgang zwischen 2003 und 2007 platziert werden… In Bezug auf die Phenolreifung… waren die in den Trauben gefundenen Daten mit denen von 2003 vergleichbar… In diesem Jahrgang wurden die Ergebnisse nicht immer durch eine Verzögerung der Ernte verbessert. '
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Geschrieben von Tom Maresca
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